Triglav North Face

The mighty north wall of Triglav rises up 1200m high from the valley of Vrata. The 3 km wide face belongs to the alpine elite, its name is written into the foundations of European alpinism. It consists of numerous couloirs, towers or pillars, which divide it into a few sections, offering amazing climbing on all levels.

Triglav North Face

Triglav North Face

Big Wall climbing
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The mighty north wall of Triglav rises up 1200m high from the valley of Vrata. The 3 km wide face belongs to the alpine elite, its name is written into the foundations of European alpinism. It consists of numerous couloirs, towers or pillars, which divide it into a few sections, offering amazing climbing on all levels.

Čop pillar climbing NTriglav wall climbing julian alps

Who is it suitable for?

Guided climbs are suitable for all of you not afraid of heights and in very good physical condition. Depending on the difficulty of the climb they can be suitale for total beginners (Slovenian route), individuals with some climbing experience (Nemška route) and experienced climbers in good shape (Skalaška route and Čop pillar)

Slovenian route

This route offers one of the most beautifull introductories into big wall climbing in the Julian Alps. Even thow it is technically not very demanding, it is not always easy to find the passages in the wall and therefore requires quite a bit of experience while attempting it alone.

Duration and difficulty:

Approach: 1.5h

Climbing to the top of the wall: 3-5h.

Reaching the summit and descent: 5-8h.

The difficulty does not acceed grade 3, some varieties offer mice climbing up to grade 3. When climbing with a guide you only need good physical condition, when you decide to climb and descend in one day you need to be very fit.

Slovenian route Slovenska smer Triglav N wall Severna stena

German route

It is an very nice climbing route taking you across the biggest pillar in the Wall. It is steeper and involeves more climbing that Slovenian route, so it is good to have some previos experience in sport climbing before choosing a guided climb.

Duration and difficulty:

Approach: 1.5h.

Climbing in the wall: 3-5h

Reaching the summit and descend: 5-8h

Most parts are graded between  II-III, the last pitch is a bit steeper and graded IV.

Skalaška climbing Triglav N wall severna stena plezanje

Skalaška route

Defenetly one of the most beautifull routes in the N wall, set in the central part. Looking at it from the valley, it is difficult to imagine the passages and traverses it follows, but once you are climbing it will take you to the amazing wold of good rock and hidden shelves where the mountain goats found their ways into the wall.

Duration and difficulty:

Approach: 1.5h.

Climbing: 5-7h

Reaching the summit and descent: 5-8h.

One of the longest routes with constant climbing, needs some previous experience in climbing (min. grade V sport climbing) even when attempting it with a guide.

Skalaška route Triglav N wall Severna stena plezanje

Čop pillar

This iconic route is a must for every serious Slovenian climber. It is a true treat, offering  VI+ climbing almoast throughout the 1000m long route. You need to be seriousl fit and a solid 6b+ climber to attept this one with a guide.

Duration and difficulty:

Approach: 1.5h.

Climbing: 6-10h

Reaching the summit and descent: 3-5h.

Altitude difference: 450m, 6+

Length of the route: 1000m

 

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